Hi all,
Has anyone tried to use a speedy sleeve on a scroll seal type crankshaft to convert to the lip type seal?
Thanks in advance.
Paul

I have not done this, sorry for the weak post, but I thought it was interesting and googled it and found this site that seems pretty relevant. I don't know if you have seen it, maybe it will be helpful to you. It seems very doable. You could have a machine shop (or anybody with a lathe) make you one of these as well.

http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/acb/seal/speedi.htm

I did not like the author's use of the larger sleeve with loc-tite. I am concerned that a sloppy, off-center installation could result in leaking and premature seal failure. I would go smaller and/or custom sleeve and use a slight interference fit with the crank. Installtion could be made with brute force if the interference was mild enough (.001" or less) or you could put the sleeve in the oven and heat it to 400-450 and pop it on. If you do this, you have to work quickly or you will end up grinding the sleeve off and starting over or pounding it into place. I would still use a bit of sealant on the crank to ensure no leaking between the sleeve and crank.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out if you try it!

Paul,
I installed a speedy sleeve on my 1500 awhile back because of the amount of oil leaking there. I stayed with the stock seal as far as I know. Take note of the distance between the front of the timing chain cover and the rear (engine side) of the pulley hub. This is to be sure you get the sleeve on the proper distance. I purchased the sleeve I used from NAPA. I cleaned up the surface on the hub with a bit of fine steel-wool. No cement was used as it was a tight fit. I did not remove the "lip" on the sleeve after installing. A friend has a electric impact gun that I used to get the hub nut on and off with. I was a bit discouraged that oil was still weeping from the seal at first. But now after several hundred miles the seal seams to have worn in and only a few drops are bleeding out.
Also I removed the insulation from the front of the timing cover and I do not detect any timing chain noise. I made a tool from a wire coat hanger to compress the timing chain tensioner The trick there is to bend the wire such a way as to hook over the flat springs and then be flat against the back of the seal surface. Once the cover is nearly seated then rotate the wire to release the springs with out damaging the gasket. Good luck!

I have use a lot of speedy sleeves in the shop over the years. They are expensive for what you get, but replacing the worn piece is more expensive. They work great, and they are stainless so they hold up well and last. I never knew they were available for the Spits, but I would not hesitate to use one.