Making a LeMans Style Headllight,

Well the first thing I was going to have to do is find the center of my bonnet, which can be found by the air intake on the bonnet, on a 1980 bonnet there are 49 slots, the center was 15. It may be different on other years.

I found it easier for me to take the bonnet off, and all attachments. Anyway, in the front on the bonnet center underneath, there is a small hole in which is the center of the bonnet. Draw a line up so you can see it better, and using a chalk line, I snaped a line from the center of grill to that mark, blow away the waste. So the line does not rub away, a clear coat of something over the line, what the line does, is helps with measurements so both sides are cut and formed evenly.
Using a cloth measuring ruler, that’s used in sewing, which works better, mark on the chalk line, pencil or marker 3 inch marks just behind where you think you will be cutting. Again, used to accurate help.

Now before I go any further with this, I had to decide what kind of Lemans style I wanted, I looked at some different photos of Dino, fiat, LeMans, Jags and so on,

When making templates, I made them out of thin card board; and use the center line as well as the side seams on the Spitfire to help with measuring, again, once I made the cut there's no going back, so be sure this is what you want.

Now the modification that i made was was done with fiberglass, but I could have saved myself allot of time and trouble, if I had access to or knew someone who welded.

NOTE:
What would also save me some time is if I could have found a company who sale plex covers for kit cars as i have listed below. Don't know if they will sell them separate but there's no harm in asking. If I would have been able to locate covers again, save me some time, so, use the plex cover to make your LeMans style head light which again, will save you some time, as you’ll have the shape, and you'll probably have to cut them down a little, cutting slowly as not to crack the lens. just need to transfer that to your bonnet. Another plus too this is that you’ll also have covers over your modification after all is done. Of course you may still have to cut them down.

http://www.automobileaddiction.com/ = 250 GT "SportSpyder
http://www.classicreplicasuk.com/ = Ferrari Dino 246
http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/5531_ferrari_spyder_replica_kit/index.html = Calif Spyder Replica
http://www.kitcarz.com/ = Ferrari 250 GTO
http://www.shellvalley.com/Replicas_and_Jeeps/Daytona_Replica/ = 1964 Daytona Coupe Series II

After you've removed the original head light & headlight buckets, etc, which you will be reusing, and you've traced your outline, a small drill bit was used which made a slot for the blade. It’s now time to cut, taking a deep breath, and maybe a stuff drink, and not having any second thoughts, cut away. But make sure you have safety goggles on, jig saw kicks up bits of metal.

The part that is cut out,is the end product of your cut out and the one thing, that I should have used, which would have cut down allot of glassing. Weld the seam in the back, and then grind the ridge on the other side and fill in. Save these parts for later use. Now I didn’t take pics of the next thing, but will try to tell what I did, concerning, the Light Panel Outer Ring.

After cutting out, you will need to cut or grind any excess metal down and or smooth

On cutting excess material out, there is a lip on the inside lip seam where the two body half meet. If your fiber glassing, you will have to remove about 1 to 2 inches, and weld the gap, which will give you something to glass to. If you’re doing metal, leave the lip, grind the other excess
To make less work for yourself, glassing, cut excess material from Light Panel Outer Ring, leaving just the small forward portion and re-bolt it back on bonnet and weld seams where it connects to bonnet.
What this part will do is help with forming your LeMans Style headlights.

As all my work was done with fiberglass mating and fiberBondo with fiberglass fibers, forming the headlight design can be done with either metal, or glass as I have done.

Light Panel Outer Ring
Weld these parts in, about ½ to 1 from each of cut, if you want your lights to set back, or you can weld it to the edge. When you weld make sure that where the light buckets sits on/in is level.


Now the two parts that you cut out and that you’ve welded and grind, I think the part you cut off the driver’s side fits the passenger side, and the passage fits the driver side, or is it the other way around, not sure. In other words fit which one fits best, as you will be able to tell once in.

Once this has been welded in, its time to form , with metal or glass.
You’ll need to make a lip around the front where everything connects to. Once your lip is made, it’s time to form and fill in your LeMans head light.

As stated before, if you can find Plexiglas covers, this is where you should first start and you’ll save yourself allot of trouble. I’ve recently found some plex glass cover that I had from a kit car, so I’m currently changing the front to match lens, never a dull moment. in for an oz in for a lb. Where were these when I started eh, oh well. I will have to cut glass down, but now I have covers , oh yea.

To protect paint and plex covers, when bonnet is done, I’ve used 7/64 x 6 windshield washer & vacuum tubing. Simply using a sharp razor blade, slice down the middle. When done, just place around edge of plex covers, and superglue ends together. Be careful not to slice into the other side like I did and had to purchase another. It comes in 6ft length, so you should have enough for both covers. Another thought, chrome door edge moding?

If your placing side grills like the GT6 and LeMans, couple of options, your either making modifications to a GT6 which already has grills, you can modify a pair from a Pontiac GT0 front grill like I did (forgot what year), or you can use BMW fender side grill, which was used on a Spitfire that I found on the web. When you look at them it doesn’t look too bad and will save yourself allot of time.

These can be found on Ebay for about $20.00 a pair if you look. I probably would have gone that way and save myself alllllllllllllllllot of glassing again, and still thinking about. The M5 is easily removable in which a Spitfire Logo can be placed instead.

Well, that’s it, the power hump on my LeMans bonnet is from an Eclipse, and welded to bonnet, as I plan on placing a Chevy S10 V6 2.8, with Carbs, and a T5 transmission, with a Subaru differential.

Still trying to locate a plate to fit the subaru/datsun so that it will fit into the frame without making mods. Its funny you see them allot on other Spitfire, but no information on where they got it, if your out there, share the information!!!!

As I can’t leave well enough alone, and because I had this on my third spitfire, this one will also have an electric bonnet lift, no more walking around the other side to lift the bonnet,for me, it worked with either remotely or switch. will attached pic later
Good luck