Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire

Radiator Air Tunnel

Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:11:40 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2010-06-19 10:11:40

I fabricated an air tunnel to force air up into my lay-down radiator.

Air tunnel 66pc

Aluminum Engine Curtains

Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:07:21 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2010-06-19 10:07:21

replaced the ratty cardboard engine valences with aluminum.

engine valences

New Buttons In Leaf Spring Pack

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:56:28 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-10-23 17:56:28

I pretty much covered everything in the Spitfire forum that I did with rebuilding the leaf spring pack on my 1980 Spitfire. Like I say, it was overall an easy fix and a learning experience. Mostly just want to post a couple more pictures. If you've come across this entry and need more info, search in the Spitfire forum " new buttons in the leaf spring pack".

new buttons in place add lift, spings were touching before

Cardboard Valences

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 16:21:52 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-10-14 16:21:52

I guess that's what they are called. It only took all day but I removed the drivers side cardboard valence. I had to replace the section of it closest to the firewall as the electric fuel pump and Allison ignition box are mounted there. I have some old aluminum around so I used the old piece to make a pattern and cut out the section I needed. Used my Mouse sander to clean up the aluminum a bit. I also made a tube brace to help support the forward end. All in all I'm happy with it for now.

aluminum valance

Grill Insert And Radiator Stone Guard

Sun, 04 Oct 2009 11:18:53 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-10-04 11:18:53

When we went on a ride out of town the other day I found us having to go down some gravel roads for a ways. Of course I slowed way down but it made me think of the vulnerability of the radiator from stone damage. So I've had this expanded aluminum metal laying around for years. Can't even remember where I got it from now. I made a two foot by eighteen inch piece for under the front side of the radiator and another piece about five inches by two foot for a grill insert. Both pieces fit nicely and easily follow the contour of the frame components. Looks ok and I feel a little more confident about keeping stone away from the radiator. Haven't decided if I should polish it up or paint them black.

Spitty grill insert

Firewall Shelf Rust 2

Fri, 11 Sep 2009 19:09:12 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-09-11 19:09:12

The shelf is primed and painted. The hard part is going to be putting everything back in place without scratching the fresh paint! The gray wiring harness is going to be a problem, threading it back under and through the two vertical brackets.

looking allot better

Firewall Shelf Rust 1

Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:11:41 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-09-11 16:11:41

I've seen worse... so I'm going to clean this up and repaint it. Mostly just surface rust caused by brake and clutch fluid. The paint is actually soft more than half way across. Going to use some zip strip and allot of elbow grease. I've seen these rusted all the way through! We have a weekend of rain coming so what better time than now. I've already removed the mounts and just have them sitting there showing the rust under the paint. I've now removed most everything from the shelf all the way over to the battery box. Today I have about one third of the paint removed and the rust sanded down to bare metal from the drivers side around the pedal slots. Hope to get the rest done tomorrow while it rains here in Florida.
I've stripped and sanded the paint, feathered the edges. Hit the rust with some neutralizer, ready for primer.

The ugly area that's been bothering me...

down to bare metal

Satin Black Bumpers

Sat, 05 Sep 2009 06:31:04 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-09-05 06:31:04

I cleaned up the old bumpers, used some fine steel wool on them and the put a few coats of what was supposed to be flat black. The paint is the Fusion, "sticks to anything" paint out of the rattle can. Well the finish is a bit shiny, more like a satin finish, which looks all right to me and the boss (wife). As long as she approves, my little world keeps on turning!

Satin finish

Disk Brake Calipers

Sat, 05 Sep 2009 05:21:06 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-09-05 05:21:06

A couple days ago I rebuilt the front disk brake calipers. A fairly easy straight-forward job. I took on this task because I had a slight pulling to the left when applying the brakes and just overall weak brakes. Secondly while out on a little jaunt I had stopped at a red light and detected a bit of smoke coming up from the right front wheel-well. Fortunantly there was a big "M" right there so I pulled in to check it out and get some breakfast. Well sure enuff the brake was dragging and had the hub so hot it was cooking the bearing grease. So it was pancakes and sausage and a slow ride home.
I suspected a piston was stuck on the right side. I ordered the kit from V-B, which by the way is enuff to do BOTH sides. Upon pulling the right side apart, sure enuff the inner piston was rusted quite tightly in it's bore. I used a small engine hone on the bore and cleaned it up. A little emrey cloth on the piston and it cleaned up nice too. A couple tiny pits left where the chrome is gone, but that will be ok for now. I will replace the calipers when money allows. But, for now, the $10. kit versus $300+ calipers works for me. I have the hand brake adjusted to lock up the rear wheels if need be!

Of course new front calipers will need new stainless steel braided brake lines at all four corners. $100. New rear slaves, etc. So it's not just new calipers anymore. Overall I'm happy with the results. The brakes are 25% better. The kit from V-B is nice, except there is no little flat O-ring provided for in-between the caliper halves. So be warned do not lose the original one.

Front Bumper

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 04:28:07 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-27 04:28:07

Out of curiosity I took the front bumper mask off. Well not much I can do with what's under there. Even with taking the yellow bumper thingys off one is left with the two housings for the bonnet tilt assemblies. I could fabricate some sheet metal around the sides by each turn signal. Better yet a full valance from one side to the other like on the MG's. Something that also follows the slope of the bonnet. I just don't like those two big teet's sticking out like feeler's on a cockroach..lol

front bumper mask off

Rain Flap Alterations

Tue, 18 Aug 2009 16:11:23 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-18 16:11:23

It was a easy fix. I drilled out the rivet that was holding the strap from the top rain flap to the inside. As I explained in an earlier journal entry the way it's sewed together the rain flap has a gap at the front of both windows when rolled up allowing the rain to pour in.
After drilling out the rivet I installed a snap button base in the existing rivet hole. One could install a upside down Y type suspender from the strap to the two forward button bases on the door. Using an elastic band material to secure the flap while driving.
Note that one must be sitting in the car to attach the lower rear snap and to undo the upper front snap and then to roll the window up. One cannot open the door with the window up and the glass on the inside the flaps. I've found that from the outside one must unbutton a couple of the top snaps under the rear side windows to seal the car up with the door windows rolled up. Of course that's what we all like... a tight fit.

the button base replaced the rivet

No Rear Bumper

Mon, 17 Aug 2009 19:23:59 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-17 19:23:59

Took the rear rubber baby buggy bumper off today. No wonder they quit making Triumphs. All this extra stuff they were made to install just to sell these cars in America. Makes one wonder who was behind all that.
It just looks so clean and the original lines show through. I'm thinking nerf bars or something. I hate to put that black plastic monstrosity of a bumper back on!
I already cut the tailpipe stinger off some. I also buffed out all the years of accumulated grime from under the bumper area after this picture was taken.
Rather than having nothing for a rear bumper I used the aluminum channel material originally used to mount all the plastics. I painted it gloss black along with the lower braces that attach to the frame on each side.

Clean lines with out bumper

Aluminum bumper backbone painted black

Replaced The Muffler

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:54:16 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-15 10:54:16

I needed to get the muffler out of the way so I could clean up the surface rust on the underside of the trunk.
The old stock noise trap was very rusty itself so I elected to replace it with a Thrush turbo muffler for now. I was able to do this for about fifty bucks and it only took a few hours. I utilized the offset in one end of the muffler to bring the tailpipe out in the middle of the rear bumper. Also extended the "stinger" pipe about four inches beyond the bumper. Painted it all high heat flat black.
I cleaned the underside of the trunk, used CLR on it to get rid of any rust in the little pits left after sanding. Primed and painted with Rustolium and then a nice coat of black rubberized undercoating.
The muffler gives the car a throaty sound but not loud.

the new muffler

Rain Flaps On Windows Continued

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:33 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-15 10:39:33

The top rain flap I explained in the previous entry. I just want to show one picture of the strap and the gap it creates.

the rain gap

Rain Flaps On The Windows

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:35:06 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-15 10:35:06

I know it's not possible to keep the Florida rains from getting in to the cockpit, but I see a couple ways to maybe help out.
I don't know what brand top I have on my car, just glad it's new. What I see are the little flaps on both sides at the back bottom of each window. I see the possibility of using these by installing a button snap on each one and then one can connect to the rear snap for the cockpit cover on the door. Should help hold the rear vertical rain flap against the glass.
Now for the top rain flap. I see this strap that is sewed to the front portion of the flap and then it goes around to the inside and is attached to the top frame. Well when one rolls the window up the window cannot be completely under that flap. In an average Florida rain storm this could let a gallon or two of water into the cockpit and that's just one side! I don't plan on driving in the rain, but it happens. I'll at least want to get off the road safely and sit it out. My plan is to detach the strap and put a snap on it and a base on the inside. In the rain I can unsnap and let it hang outside the window enabling the window to roll up completly under the flap.

the installed snap lower right at rear of door

Removing The Red, Blue And Silver Grafics

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:16:56 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-08-15 10:16:56

I wasn't happy with the way the grafics looked. Very weathered and chipped in places. So after about twenty hours of using my wife's hair dryer, this works better than the stuff one buys at the auto parts store, to heat up the glue a bit and then slowly, ever so slowly peel back the tape. Well of course the glue stays behind. Even after the vinyl is gone the stuff one buys at the auto parts store for $8. still will not take the glue off! So time to experiment. I hit the mother load with isopropyl alcohol. Takes a fair amount of hand motion but it took off the glue from the red and blue vinyl. The wider silver stripe needed heating and then I used a soft teflon spatula to slice away at it. That glue didn't seam bothered by the alcohol, but it sure gave up it's grip with a little Zippo lighter fluid! As you see from before and after pictures it's a totally different looking car. We'll see about new grafics after the paint job way down the road.
After all that I hit the marred surfaces with polishing compound and cleaned it up a bit. The alcohol sure makes the paint white again!

the body long grafics are gone

Re-upholstering The Seats

Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:20:30 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-24 12:20:30

Well that didn't take long at all. Two days to get the seats re-upholsterd. The shop used my black original leatherette and sewed in new houndstooth cloth to mach the original pattern. Over all I very happy. Saved big bucks and this just about finishes the interior. Rather than mess with trying to get some other seat to shoehorn in this is the way to go as it keeps the car OEM. It cost about $300. for the upholstery job and $20. to have a shop wire weld the broken back brace in the drivers seat. I don't think one can do better than having a local shop do this job. Here's a picture of the finished product. We'll be enjoying the car now for awhile while I hunt for a rear differential and a transmission to rebuild.
Oh... BTW, I did the headrests myself...lol!

newly re-upholstered seats in my 80 spitty...

Searching For Seats

Thu, 23 Jul 2009 05:12:21 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-23 05:12:21

Spent half the day yesterday looking for Miata seats. The only seats that will come close to fitting in a Spitfire. Well, found a few pairs that had been sitting in their host cars for years in the Florida weather, tops gone off the cars. In worse shape than my current stock seats. Looked on the internet and really did not find a good looking functional seat. So, I spent the other half of the day looking for a upholstery shop. Found one right in the neighborhood. He even has the original "houndstooth" cloth fabric in black and white. For a mere three
hundred dollars he's going to pull the original fabric from the seats, sew in the new with new foam backing utilizing the original black leatherette. He's also going to cut new foams to fill the wings on each side of the seatback. Wherein the original problem lent itself to view with dried up crumbled pieces of foam constantly falling to the floor along side and behind the seats.
Sure it won't be perfect because the original leatherette has a couple tiny holes that I'll patch with some liquid material. But over all I keep the stock seats, put some years for use back in and this just about finishes the interior back to OEM. All for about one quarter of what the kits costs to do it yourself. This morning I'm going to a welding shop to have one of the cross braces in the back of the drivers seat wire welded as it broke off at some point in the last 30 years.
Well that's about it. I should have the seats back next wednesday. I'll post a picture after I get them re-installed. Here's a pic of the ugly. One can see where the bolsters have rotted away on each side of the seatback.

the ugly

First Ride After Rr Axle Replaced

Sat, 18 Jul 2009 05:01:54 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-18 05:01:54

We went for a nice ride along the Gulf last night. My wife says the car sounds sooo much better and she thinks she cannot feel the bad wheel bearing anymore. I take that as a good sign. Overall I'm happy with the work I've done so far. Everything is working as it should including the electrics. Headlights do not flicker when hitting a bump. Brakes are fair, need to check the front calipers. Motor sounded real good out on the highway. Though I wish we had the overdrive. We don't plan on going more than a hundred miles away from home.
The ice cream cones we had in Crystal Beach were very good. The same ice cream stand I used to take my high school girl friends to over 40 years ago! We really had to wolf them down though as the temps are in the 80's even after sunset. Thought we may have to put the top up as it started misting some. Turns out as we got closer to home the rain was ahead of us. The roads were wet but we got into the garage with minimal moisture exposure.

On The Road Again!

Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:31:25 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-17 10:31:25

Got most everything done last night. All I had left to do this am was hook up the parking brake and adjust it. Then bleed the brakes. I ran up to the hardware store and got a two foot piece of clear 5/16" ID plastic tubeing, 49 cents. Utilizing one of my empty beverage bottles from last night I was able to bleed the brakes by myself. Why didn't I think of this when I was a teenager? Open the bleeder valve put the tubeing on it and the other end in the bottle with a little loop in the tube. Making sure the brake canister is always full, slowly pump the brakes. About ten strokes and then check the hose for air bubbles and see that there is brake fluid coming into the bottle. Check fluid level and repeat. I did this three times. The idea is once there is some brake fluid in the bottle covering the end of the tube air cannot get back up into the brake slave cylinder. Brakes are working good. I'm going to check the front calipers to be sure they are working well. Oh, pour out the extra brake fluid and dispose of properly so as not to get it confused with a cold beverage later! Cheers!!!

New Axle And Painted Parts!

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 19:18:06 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-16 19:18:06

Got allot done today. All the parts came in yesterday to replace the right rear axle. Just alittle disappointed with the axle. The packaging failed and the outboard end managed to break through the box and was buggered up threadwise. Was not much of a problem for Glen in St.Pete as he fit it all together in no time. Spent the afternoon in 95 degree heat and humidity putting it together. All I have left to do is hook the hand brake and bleed the hydrolics. All I'm hopeing for is the rear end to be a bit quieter so we can move on to the transmission. Really I would have gotten it done tonite, but the mosquitoes kept flying off with my tools!

major components in

Waiting On New Parts... Sand And Paint The Reuseable

Sat, 11 Jul 2009 14:16:28 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-11 14:16:28

Good grief is there anything worse than waiting for parts? I've spent the last couple days sanding and painting parts. At least one side will be looking good for awhile.

parts, de-rusted, etched and painted

Internet Parts Shopping

Wed, 08 Jul 2009 18:48:34 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-08 18:48:34

I finally found a new axle shaft with the universal yoke already installed. Can't beat the price compared to the parts house that sells the shaft without the yoke. Price the same! The bearing and seal kit is also a nice savings over buying each separately. It sure pays to slow down and do some internet shopping comparison. Another plus is they charge half of what others do for shipping.
I've been cleaning up parts and getting them ready for a little paint. I want to sand blast the brake backing plate, so tomorrow I'll go in search of a place that might let me do that myself.
Because of water restrictions here in Florida we are still not allowed to pressure wash unless it's for safety or health reasons. With all this rain I hope that's lifted soon. I'd like to clean the under carriage
and put a fresh coat of sealer on.
Well that's about it. I got an email from UPS saying they've received my order and it's on the way. I don't expect it until Monday.

Removong The Rt Rear Axle

Mon, 06 Jul 2009 16:02:27 -0700

From journal Kasper, The White 1980 Triumph Spitfire by Loren Welch
Created on The Triumph Experience at 2009-07-06 16:02:27

We took a big step yesterday and took apart the right drive axle. Every thing went good until we got to the hub flange. My flywheel puller wasn't quite heavy duty enough to get the job done. It did pull the flange off about 3/8's of an inch. I had found Glenn's MG repair down in St. Pete. I got there and within minutes Glenn was working at finishing the job with the right tool. We found that the roller/needle bearings has scored the axle shaft, rendering it useless unless I could fine a machine shop that could weld on some metal then machine it off to the original specs. Well that proved to be easier said than done. So after several hours on the phone I relented and ordered all the parts I need to replace the axle. With shipping, $230. That's just for the right side now. We'll see if the growling noise has stopped. Note that some of the needle bearings were missing from the cage. If so I'll move onto the next step and see about replacing the clutch and seeing what's causing the clunk in the tranny.
Glenn charged me a couple bucks for his time, but gave me a hundred dollars of advice for free. Thank you, Glenn.
Here's a pic of the car up on a home made castor a friend loaned me. Thank you John

car up on a home made dolly