The Triumph Experience Owner Journals

Rear

Sun, 05 Feb 2012 08:12:07 -0800

Mark Freece's Journal --

Done with trunk, rear lights, reverse lights, license plate light and hokder

Posted 2012-02-05 08:12:07 by Mark Freece

2/5/12

Sat, 04 Feb 2012 22:00:23 -0800

Scott Beattie's Journal --

Been pluggin along . Ordered pretty much all the suspension parts . Repainted the steering wheel w/ rustoleum hammered finish and did the grill upgrade . Turned out pretty good me thinks .

<IMG 0081 2>

<IMG 0083>

Posted 2012-02-04 22:00:23 by Scott Beattie

Old Models

Sat, 04 Feb 2012 09:29:53 -0800

Bob Evans's Journal --

In response to Al (Falkon's) post on old models I dug out two I could not part with. A 1/8 scale Monogram Jag E-Type coupe that I did when I was 15 or 16 and a 1/24 scale Monogram die-cast metal MG-TC that I did in my 20's. The glue is letting go on both and they will have to be refurbished if I keep them. The plan is to put them in a glass case in my garage.
Bob
Feb. 05/12

<Monogram 1/8 E-Type Coupe>

<E-Type Model circa '66- '67>

Posted 2012-02-04 09:29:53 by Bob Evans

Road Trip Breakfasts

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:14:14 -0800

Road Trippin' With Steve McCarthy --

Road Trippin’
with Steve McCarthy

I’m not really a morning person. Yeah, these days I seem to get up early, but that’s just a function of age and habit. I’m not what you’d call awake before about 10AM. Thirty years of teaching and needing to be out of the house before 7AM to get ready for the little dears has made it tough to sleep in. This means I’m rarely awake enough to bother with breakfast. A cup of hot chocolate (I really hate coffee- I know, sacrilege in this Starbucks driven world- but then you know me, an iconoclast to the hilt) and a breakfast bar is about it. If Marianne is making bacon, well, naturally I’ll have some of that, but really, I’m just not a breakfast guy. Unless we’re on a Road Trip.
If it’s Road Trip Time, I’m a breakfast-o-holic. Our usual deal is to hit the road at O’Dark-Thirty, and about an hour or so down the road, pull in and get some eats. As a creature of habit, for me it’s always the same thing. Pancakes. Unless there’s Waffles. Then either sausage (only if it’s link sausage in the casing, don’t give me those patties!) or bacon, lots of maple syrup and butter and a cup of hot chocolate. I tell ya, nothing beats good flapjacks in setting up the day for a long drive. Ya got yer protein from the porky goodness, carbs from the pancakes, sugar from the syrup (hopefully but rarely is it REAL maple syrup) and maybe blueberries for some fruit. What more can you ask for?
Now every one has their own favorites to get the day going and I’m not about to try and break you of your favorite day starter. It is perhaps the most personal food choice you can make. Some people love eggs. Me, I’m not an egg fan. Put it down to my Mom making Christmas ornaments out of whole egg shells and me having to eat scrambled eggs every morning for what seemed like months. Still, lots of you love ‘em and your choices are endless. Hell, that greatest of all French cookbooks, Larousse Gastronomique lists some 250 or so different ways to do eggs, and that’s not including omelet variations! Eggs are a very personal choice and people are exceptionally particular about having them perfect and their way. I get that. Then there’s the SoCal invention, the Breakfast Burrito. Again, very personal choice as to what it should contain. A Talmudic Debate can arise just bringing up the topic.
The point of all this is to give you our Top Spots for Breakfast On the Road. These are the non-corporate, locally owned, mom and pop diners that once were the staple of Road Trip Life. These are the places that sustained generations of Fellow Travelers, both professional and recreational. There was an old saw about “Eat Where the Truck Drivers Eat.” Once I think that was true, but usually it meant that the food was cheap and plentiful, not necessarily good. Today, most truckers still prefer that (it’s coming out of their pocket and their profits after all) and the Mega Eateries know this and cater to it. It’s just not that good a guide any more. In unfamiliar territory, it is a good indicator if there are a lot of cars in the parking lot that look local. Locals know and support places that are good. Places that give good value and good food. So, in unfamiliar territory, let that be your guide.
This list is just the tip of the iceberg of course. It’s not definitive and best of all, it’s local. All of them are within an hour’s drive from Monrovia.
1) LeRoys. 523 W Huntington Dr, Monrovia, California (626) 357-5076 · leroysrestaurant.com. This place is on old Route 66 and is in our backyard. It’s a serious diner that is open only for breakfast and lunch. It’s almost always crowded, and prepare for a long wait on Saturday and Sunday mornings. It’s also terrific!!!! Pancakes that flop over the edge of a dinner plate, good bacon, good sausage and a great staff. It’s been an institution for decades here in town. In fact, as I’m writing this, I’m in a bit of a rush because I’m meeting my sister Sue and her husband Rog there for breakfast this morning!
2) Worker Bee Cafe 973 Linden Avenue, Carpinteria, CA. (805) 745-1828 Dear Constant Readers and you who have my book will have heard of this place. It’s one of our favorites and a must stop if we were headed north on 101. The couple who run it are wonderful. He cooks, she wait’s tables. He’ll come out to chat and the locals all give him guff and he gives it back. The waffles are quite good and again the place is crowded. The decor is wonderfully kitschy, filled with Bee Themed Stuff. As it should. Like all good diners, they also cater to families and will bring out a bucket of small toys for kids to fool with while they wait for the food. As with LeRoys, they only do breakfast and lunch.
3)Summit Inn Restaurant, 5970 Mariposa Rd, Hesperia, California, (760) 949-8688. This is another classic Route 66 Diner. One of the originals and one of the few real one’s left. Get there NOW because there are new owners and it seems a bit up in the air if they will keep it open. That would be tragic. This place is right at the top of Cajon Pass and is perfect if you are headed east. The staff are what you’d want. They call you “Hon” and serve up good food with a smile and some conversation. This place is open for dinner and serves exotica like buffalo and ostrich burgers. Seriously, make a stop there and SAVE THE SUMMIT!!!
4) Bun Boy 1890 West Main Street, Barstow, CA,(760) 256-8082. OK, Barstow is more than an hour away, but this place is another classic Route 66 spot. It’s pretty far off the interstate, but why the heck are you on the interstate in the first place? If you take Route 66 from Victorville, it’s just as you get into Barstow. There’s a huge parking lot from the days when the trucks rolled by and the food is great! Truly homemade everything, and all the funky decor that you’d expect.
So, there’s four places to start with. Please support your local diners so we won’t be reduced to McJackKing slop as our only choice. Try ‘em all, and if you have one to add to the list, let me know at steve@theacemagazine.com. Good Eating, and Good Road Trippin’ to ya!

<The Summit Inn, top of Cajon Pass>

<LeRoys in Monrovia>

Posted 2012-02-01 14:14:14 by Steve McCarthy

Looking For

Sun, 29 Jan 2012 15:40:09 -0800

Rodolphe Valenti's Journal --

looking for spitfire mk2 1966 or 1967 or spitfire mk3 1968 in good condition around montreal quebec

Posted 2012-01-29 15:40:09 by rodolphe valenti

1/29/12

Sun, 29 Jan 2012 04:14:22 -0800

Scott Beattie's Journal --

Seems i'm going to have to get creative getting the rear suspension back together . Will have to fab spring lever tool to assist getting the lower control arms in place . With the bare chassis could be a trick . I might have a plan . Have to order bushings . Make a note .

<IMG 0080>

Posted 2012-01-29 04:14:22 by Scott Beattie

Gauge Modifications

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:25:19 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well I decided to put new 2 inch gauges in the center part of my dash. The background of the ones I bought are white. I decided to do a mod on my original tach and speedometer. I took them apart removed the number plates and scanned them. I then used photo shop to inverse the colors and fool around with the font. I printed them to a vinyl sticker material and stuck them to the gauge faces followed by a few coats of clear lacquer. After putting them all back together I was happy with the look.

<face plate>	<original look>	<paint face plate white before sticker>
<finished product>

Posted 2012-01-28 12:25:19 by Dave B

Progress

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 03:26:44 -0800

Scott Beattie's Journal --

New bearings for the rear , u-joints. It's coming along , although getting to the point I'm going to have to start spending some cash .

<IMG 0076>

Posted 2012-01-28 03:26:44 by Scott Beattie

Rear Suspention

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 15:51:53 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well got the rear all back together. I put new shocks,wheel bearings,urethane bushings, and U joints. Sand blasted all the parts and painted them with epoxy followed by satin black urethane.

<Picture 096>

Posted 2012-01-26 15:51:53 by Dave B

Ready For Paint

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 15:43:27 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well body is about done just a light sanding. I am very happy with the way the hood and fender vents turned out.

<Picture 098>	<Picture 100>	<Picture 101>
<Picture 106>

Posted 2012-01-26 15:43:27 by Dave B

Diff Replacement

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 18:32:43 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Picked up a used diff for 100 bucks. It was from a GT6 with overdrive and has the same gearing mine was. I change 2 bearings on the outputs and 3 seals.

<new diff ready to go in>

<old diff finished>

Posted 2012-01-24 18:32:43 by Dave B

Valance Overhaul

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 18:18:24 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well the last part of the car to prep for paint turned out to be rusted badly and filled in with bondo.After sandblasting I had to cut the inner and outer layers off and weld in new metal. I was happy with the results. I am at 328 hours of work thus far and it will be ready for paint this week

<rust>	<more rust>	<rust cut out>
<new inner and outer metal>

Posted 2012-01-24 18:18:24 by Dave B

#2

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 07:25:00 -0800

Scott Beattie's Journal --

Been making alot of progress this last month, scraping , cleaning , sand blast , painting . Im to the point of getting it back on it's feet (at least )

<IMG 0071 2>

<ready for assembly>

Posted 2012-01-24 07:25:00 by Scott Beattie

Gt6 Mk 3

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 07:16:33 -0800

Scott Beattie's Journal --

My first post to journal , Hope to get organized as we go . This will be my second frame off . First effort with a GT6 .

<And so it began>

<Back from the blaster and primed>

Posted 2012-01-24 07:16:33 by Scott Beattie

Replacing Fuse Panel.

Sun, 22 Jan 2012 13:26:08 -0800

Ron Wasmuth's Journal --

When I decided to put a new dashboard in my 1974 Spitfire I figured that I would go ahead and replace the 3 fuse panel with a larger fuse block.
I bought a ten station fuse block from Summit Racing and wir from British Wiring. Jason at British Wiring is very helpful and honest. he will sell wire in one meter lengths so you don't have to buy a whole roll.
My original 3 fuse panel had 1 red/green wire, 1 brown wire and 4 white wires on what I call the 'hot' side.
On what I call the 'load' side there were 2 red wires,4 purple wires and 4 green wires.
I bought approximately 16 feet of red wire, 16 feet of brown wire, 12 feet of purple, 16 feet of white, 16 feet of green and 4 feet of white/pink.
I cut the wire into 4 foot lengths.
Using spade connectors, I connected 2 red wires, 4 white wires and 4 brown wires to the 'hot' side of my new fuse block.
Again using spade connectors I connected 2 red wires on the same fuse as the 'hot' red wires, 4 green wires on the same fuses as the 4 white wires, 3 purple wires and the white/pink on the brown wire fuses. I also put wire markers #1 thru #10 on theses wires.
I then mounted the new fuse panel on the firewall behind the battery at the top of the right side glove box.
I bundled the wires together (wrapped them) and fed them across the underside of the dashboard to the left side where the original fuse panel was.
I removed the original fuse panel (squeeze the clips to pop it out) and pushed it as far into the engine bay as possible. With the original fuse panel out of the way I fed my new wires thru the hole and into the engine bay.
I cut the 'hot' side wires off the original fuse panel, spliced them to the new wires of the same color (red, white and brown), soldered them and covered them with heat shrink tubing. I have a heat gun but a hair dryer would probably work.
The I cut the 2 red 'load' side wire (panel and driving lamps)and spliced (etc.) them to the new red wires.
I then cut the purple wires, checked them with an ohm meter to see where they went and followed suit. I had one extra so I put it with another on one of the new wires.
I then followed suit with the green wires.
The last wire - the white/pink I connected to my radio so I could play the radio with the ignition off (radio is hot all the time) I turn it on/off with it's switch.
After all the splicing I pushed all the wires back into the car under the dash and popped the original fuse panel back into it's slot.

<MVC-001S>

<MVC-002S>

Posted 2012-01-22 13:26:08 by Ron Wasmuth

Truck Bed Liner Sprayed Down On Floors

Sat, 21 Jan 2012 10:20:44 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Truck bed liner spray....I did this to another car I restored 13 yrs back and the floors still look as good as the day I did it. As long as the floors are spotless of rust,dust and humidity. You can dump a bucket of water on the floor after it will never reach any metal to cause rust. The coating is flexible and as tuff as nails. A bonus is its black ....if you have black interior you can shoot area's like around windshield or top of doors that normal have vinyl glued to it. Two coats the second one from a distance gives a stippled look that looks just like vinyl but will not turn to cardboard or bubble on those hot days. I like the spray type...it takes three cans to do floors and trunk. Not sure it might have some dampening effect for noise being that it is rubber base....oh yes I did my gas tank with it also. It is oil and gas resistant.

<came out nice>

<Picture 047>

Posted 2012-01-21 10:20:44 by Dave B

Hanging The Doors And Bonnet

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 17:04:48 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well this took a good six hours for two of us. I found none of the hinges to be bent at the same angle. One was close to 90 degree but the rest came up short or over. I started by knocking them all to 90 as they should have been. The front hood hinges had been very badly repaired so I had to rebuild them. One of them needed two shims added. Its a good thing that the spitfire has like 6 different adjustable points on the hood for alignment. Some twisting cussing and bending got the job done to exactly 3/16 all around doors and bonnet.

<pretty good gap>

<good enough>

Posted 2012-01-20 17:04:48 by Dave B

Side Fender Vents

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 16:56:58 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well everyone said I should go ahead and do the side vents. It only took about 2 hours and really change the look. I taped them out and then cut them with a die grinder. I them rounded and polished the edges. I will tack weld wire mesh behind and paint them satin black. I also got my 2k filler primer sprayed on.

<taped out>

<Side vent finished>

Posted 2012-01-20 16:56:58 by Dave B

Hood Vent Still Going

Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:27:39 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well I did the epoxy on the hood and will use some filler to tweak the vent. I think I will reduce the dept and the front point make more gradual. I will put the grill in only after the car is painted. Oh yes I will put the same grill over the air vents by the wipers.

<not to shabby>

Posted 2012-01-18 16:27:39 by Dave B

Hood Vent Continued

Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:20:40 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

I started the shaping using a hammer with a dolly underneath. I found it worked better if I put to jack stands under the hood on the rods I had welded this gave it good support. I also welded the rods on the two cut edges at the vent this gave me an almost finished look after I roller the excess tin over the rod it also made it very strong.

<shaping>

<coming along>

Posted 2012-01-18 16:20:40 by Dave B

Hood Vent

Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:13:34 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well I decided to take the plunge and do a hood vent. I have never done one myself but have assisted others. I started by laying things out with tape. I then cut the top line across with a die grinder. I welded 3/16 rods to the underside for support when I started shaping. Will add some more on next entry

<taped out>

<rod welded on>

Posted 2012-01-18 16:13:34 by Dave B

The Hood Will Be A Hard One

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 16:16:49 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well it took a gallon of paint stripper and lots of hard work to stip off the 7 layers of paint from the hood. I found the front to be over an inch of filler. It must have been bumped in the front at one time. Had to grind all that out do some metal work to make it strait. It will still take some filler but only a little to make it look good. I welded in a small patch on the left underside it was a little thin after sandblasting.

<over 7 layers of paint>

<all stripped down what a job>

Posted 2012-01-17 16:16:49 by Dave B

Progress - Engine And Gearbox Out

Sun, 15 Jan 2012 19:24:29 -0800

Bob Evans's Journal --

Jan. 15th and I've spent the day in the garage pulling more bits out of the engine bay and prepping for detailing by sanding and degreasing. Geoff, forum member, friend and TR7 owner dropped by and helped pull the brake booster. The work is tedious but will be worth it in the end. There is a little surface rust and as can be expected, a couple of small holes in the battery tray area. A patch will be fabricated and MIG'd in there. No further sheet metalrepair is required.

<Dec. 22/11 - Making Progress>

<Jan.15/12 - Now Sanding>

Posted 2012-01-15 19:24:29 by Bob Evans

1966 Spitfire

Sat, 14 Jan 2012 13:55:08 -0800

Mark Freece's Journal --

She's painted.The fun job of assembly begins.

Posted 2012-01-14 13:55:08 by Mark Freece

Trunk Lid Repair

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 16:28:05 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

well ended up cutting out a patch including the under frame and putting in some new metal. Ran outa gas on the mig but I did go back and do a proper weld after.

<rusty corner>

<all patched up>

Posted 2012-01-13 16:28:05 by Dave B

Doors And Trunk Stipped Of Paint

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 16:22:54 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well got through the 6 or 7 layers of paint and got the doors and trunk stripped but was surprised to find a rusty whole on the trunk lid.

<doors are clean>

<digging the layers off>

Posted 2012-01-13 16:22:54 by Dave B

LeMans Bonnet On 1980 Spitfire

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 19:47:18 -0800

Wes Brown's Journal --

Making a LeMans Style Headllight,

Well the first thing I was going to have to do is find the center of my bonnet, which can be found by the air intake on the bonnet, on a 1980 bonnet there are 49 slots, the center was 15. It may be different on other years.

I found it easier for me to take the bonnet off, and all attachments. Anyway, in the front on the bonnet center underneath, there is a small hole in which is the center of the bonnet. Draw a line up so you can see it better, and using a chalk line, I snaped a line from the center of grill to that mark, blow away the waste. So the line does not rub away, a clear coat of something over the line, what the line does, is helps with measurements so both sides are cut and formed evenly.
Using a cloth measuring ruler, that’s used in sewing, which works better, mark on the chalk line, pencil or marker 3 inch marks just behind where you think you will be cutting. Again, used to accurate help.

Now before I go any further with this, I had to decide what kind of Lemans style I wanted, I looked at some different photos of Dino, fiat, LeMans, Jags and so on,

When making templates, I made them out of thin card board; and use the center line as well as the side seams on the Spitfire to help with measuring, again, once I made the cut there's no going back, so be sure this is what you want.

Now the modification that i made was was done with fiberglass, but I could have saved myself allot of time and trouble, if I had access to or knew someone who welded.

NOTE:
What would also save me some time is if I could have found a company who sale plex covers for kit cars as i have listed below. Don't know if they will sell them separate but there's no harm in asking. If I would have been able to locate covers again, save me some time, so, use the plex cover to make your LeMans style head light which again, will save you some time, as you’ll have the shape, and you'll probably have to cut them down a little, cutting slowly as not to crack the lens. just need to transfer that to your bonnet. Another plus too this is that you’ll also have covers over your modification after all is done. Of course you may still have to cut them down.

http://www.automobileaddiction.com/ = 250 GT "SportSpyder
http://www.classicreplicasuk.com/ = Ferrari Dino 246
http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/5531_ferrari_spyder_replica_kit/index.html = Calif Spyder Replica
http://www.kitcarz.com/ = Ferrari 250 GTO
http://www.shellvalley.com/Replicas_and_Jeeps/Daytona_Replica/ = 1964 Daytona Coupe Series II

After you've removed the original head light & headlight buckets, etc, which you will be reusing, and you've traced your outline, a small drill bit was used which made a slot for the blade. It’s now time to cut, taking a deep breath, and maybe a stuff drink, and not having any second thoughts, cut away. But make sure you have safety goggles on, jig saw kicks up bits of metal.

The part that is cut out,is the end product of your cut out and the one thing, that I should have used, which would have cut down allot of glassing. Weld the seam in the back, and then grind the ridge on the other side and fill in. Save these parts for later use. Now I didn’t take pics of the next thing, but will try to tell what I did, concerning, the Light Panel Outer Ring.

After cutting out, you will need to cut or grind any excess metal down and or smooth

On cutting excess material out, there is a lip on the inside lip seam where the two body half meet. If your fiber glassing, you will have to remove about 1 to 2 inches, and weld the gap, which will give you something to glass to. If you’re doing metal, leave the lip, grind the other excess
To make less work for yourself, glassing, cut excess material from Light Panel Outer Ring, leaving just the small forward portion and re-bolt it back on bonnet and weld seams where it connects to bonnet.
What this part will do is help with forming your LeMans Style headlights.

As all my work was done with fiberglass mating and fiberBondo with fiberglass fibers, forming the headlight design can be done with either metal, or glass as I have done.

Light Panel Outer Ring
Weld these parts in, about ½ to 1 from each of cut, if you want your lights to set back, or you can weld it to the edge. When you weld make sure that where the light buckets sits on/in is level.

Now the two parts that you cut out and that you’ve welded and grind, I think the part you cut off the driver’s side fits the passenger side, and the passage fits the driver side, or is it the other way around, not sure. In other words fit which one fits best, as you will be able to tell once in.

Once this has been welded in, its time to form , with metal or glass.
You’ll need to make a lip around the front where everything connects to. Once your lip is made, it’s time to form and fill in your LeMans head light.

As stated before, if you can find Plexiglas covers, this is where you should first start and you’ll save yourself allot of trouble. I’ve recently found some plex glass cover that I had from a kit car, so I’m currently changing the front to match lens, never a dull moment. in for an oz in for a lb. Where were these when I started eh, oh well. I will have to cut glass down, but now I have covers , oh yea.

To protect paint and plex covers, when bonnet is done, I’ve used 7/64 x 6 windshield washer & vacuum tubing. Simply using a sharp razor blade, slice down the middle. When done, just place around edge of plex covers, and superglue ends together. Be careful not to slice into the other side like I did and had to purchase another. It comes in 6ft length, so you should have enough for both covers. Another thought, chrome door edge moding?

If your placing side grills like the GT6 and LeMans, couple of options, your either making modifications to a GT6 which already has grills, you can modify a pair from a Pontiac GT0 front grill like I did (forgot what year), or you can use BMW fender side grill, which was used on a Spitfire that I found on the web. When you look at them it doesn’t look too bad and will save yourself allot of time.

These can be found on Ebay for about $20.00 a pair if you look. I probably would have gone that way and save myself alllllllllllllllllot of glassing again, and still thinking about. The M5 is easily removable in which a Spitfire Logo can be placed instead.

Well, that’s it, the power hump on my LeMans bonnet is from an Eclipse, and welded to bonnet, as I plan on placing a Chevy S10 V6 2.8, with Carbs, and a T5 transmission, with a Subaru differential.

Still trying to locate a plate to fit the subaru/datsun so that it will fit into the frame without making mods. Its funny you see them allot on other Spitfire, but no information on where they got it, if your out there, share the information!!!!

As I can’t leave well enough alone, and because I had this on my third spitfire, this one will also have an electric bonnet lift, no more walking around the other side to lift the bonnet,for me, it worked with either remotely or switch. will attached pic later
Good luck

<after 1980 bonnet change>

<P7300021>

Posted 2012-01-12 19:47:18 by Wes Brown

Sept-20-11

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 04:04:05 -0800

Ron D's Journal --

The stage that I'm at at this time. Getting stuff torn down. First time have ever gone this far on a car, so should be interesting. Cleaned all the carpet and refurbished dash, arm rest, top and painted other parts, water pump housing, thermostat housing, and etc. Working on heater at this time.

<IMG 0721>

<IMG 0723>

Posted 2012-01-11 04:04:05 by Ron D

Aug 15th In Garage

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 06:14:12 -0800

Ron D's Journal --

Will probable only be posting pictures and maybe a few comments as I go along. I think it is in pretty good shape, hardly any rust at all.

<IMG 0347>

<IMG 0348>

Posted 2012-01-10 06:14:12 by Ron D

Start Of Project

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 05:56:40 -0800

Ron D's Journal --

Was at a Fair in Washington August 8th, 2011 and down the street from the daughters house was a car under a cover, just sitting there. Kept passing by it for the next 4-5 days, told the wife I should stop and see what it was. Was getting ready to leave Washington and come back to Idaho, drove by that covered car again, so stopped to see what it was. It was the Spitfire. Knocked on the door and asked the gal if she wanted to sell it. She said Yes. Went back up the following weekend and towed it home. So here will be the beginning of the project to give to the grandson.

Car is 1977 Spitfire 1500
Engine # FM106103UCE
Chassis 58350FM
Comm# FM66349UC
Differential # FH35073
Gearbox # FT26214 22G1553
Paint # 19
Trim C11

<triumph 3>

<Triumph 1>

Posted 2012-01-10 05:56:40 by Ron D

2012 Project List

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 16:31:45 -0800

Richard Dearinger's Journal --

1) [b]Interior[/b]-Seats and foams [i](my seat frames are good I'm going to find foams I like at pull-a-part and then trim them to fit and upholster),[/i] carpet [i](have it)[/i], new console [i](I have modified the console from a Subaru something and made mounts for it, still need to upholster),[/i] door panels [i](I make and sell door cards for 1500's, so I have them, I am upholstering mine in Tuck n Roll)[/i] and rear panels [i](Tuck n Roll),[/i] refinish the dash.

2) [b]Trunk[/b]-New cards and carpet everywhere plus a few "extras" [i](Same carpet as in the interior, LED's, storage compartment)[/i].

3) [b]LED lights[/b]-Install LED's in trunk, under Bonnet, under dash and in-dash with dimmer [i](I have LED's on a strip that can be cut into 3 light sections and a dimmer for LED's all 12 volt)[/i].

4) [b]Rear Diff[/b]-change the current 3.89 to a 3.27, should be a better fit with my engine/trans [i](I have found a GT6 diff and come to a price for it just need to get together with the owner to get it)[/i].

5) [b]Front suspension[/b]-TRF magic kit[i](rubber bushes)[/i], box and powdercoat the control arms, box modify and powdercoat the shock towers, fabricate a shock tower brace [i](I have also made the deal for the control arms and towers from the same GT6 I'm getting the diff out of, just need to get there at the same time as the owner)[/i]

Posted 2012-01-09 16:31:45 by Richard Dearinger

Frame Repairs

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 10:23:24 -0800

GT6inabox --

The frame will be going to the welder tomorrow for some minor repairs. I kicked around the thought of buying a welder but my garage lacks sufficient power. Maybe in the summer I will upgrade the power in the garage but I wanted to get this project going. Looking to have a good, clean, rolling chassis for my birthday on April 20.

<DSCN2280>

Posted 2012-01-09 10:23:24 by Keith Edginton

Frame Repairs

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 10:23:23 -0800

<DSCN2280>

<DSCN2282>

Posted 2012-01-09 10:23:23 by Keith Edginton

Louis Mattar, Our New Hero!

Sun, 01 Jan 2012 10:20:46 -0800

Road Trippin' With Steve McCarthy --

Road Trippin’
with Steve McCarthy

OK, Ladies, this one’s for you. Your husband buys you a new car! Your dream car! Then he spends the next seven years and something like $75,000 making a few “improvements." Raise your hands if this sounds at all familiar. Wow, there’s a Big Surprise. Look at all those hands in the air! Hmmmm, my wife,Marianne, is leading the charge. Uh, oh.
No, I didn’t spend $75k on the Mustang (or the Blue Meanie, I think, I’m not sure, I don’t keep track of that stuff, too scary!) I did add a few touches after the unfortunate incident with the Camry that crossed our bows sideways on the I-5 in the OC. No, the King of All Tinkerers with the Wife’s Car, the Champion of Making Just a Few Improvements, the Sultan of Swaps is Louis Mattar. This guy is a Hero for all of us.
Yep, in 1947, he bought his wife a new Caddy. Over the next seven years, he made a few improvements. SEVENTY-FIVE THOUSAND 1950s DOLLARS worth of tweaks and swaps and fiddling. And yes, his wife loved it, shared in it and stayed married to him. Like I said, a Hero!
So what did he do? If you go to Balboa Park in San Diggy, hit the neat little car museum. Mattar lived in DayGo and instead of the Smithsonian, his wife’s Pride and Joy sits there. Ya see, this car is the Ultimate Road Trip Car. Mattar set records that will never be broken. From September 20th to the 27th of 1952, he and two other guys drove non-stop to New York. And Back. 6320 MILES WITHOUT STOPPING!!! Literally. In Kansas City, Camden, NJ, and Omaha, they drove onto small airports where a moving gas truck drove along side to fuel up the 230 gallon gas tank on the trailer they were towing.
Not satisfied with that, His second run in August of ’54 took him from Anchorage, Alaska to Mexico City, also non-stop, and 7,482 miles. That’s in a world without the Dreaded Interstate. Mostly a world of two lane blacktop, and not a few dirt roads, especially on the AlCan Highway and in Mexico.
No, lest you think that this was just a car towing a huge gas tank trailer, let me enlighten you about the rest of the modifications. The car can automatically change it’s own oil and refill the radiator. The tires can be automatically inflated as the car drives. In fact, using the catwalks added all around, two guys can change a tire while the car is moving at about 25 mph. Behind the rear seats is a vanity mirror. the arm rest folds down to either support an ironing board or a hot dog cooker. Under one rear seat is either a small washing machine, or, remove that and you have a potty. there is fresh water (30 gallons worth in the trailer, and 50 gallons in the trunk!) and a drinking fountain tap under one tail light. The radio antenna is replaced by a shower. The car has two TV’s and an in car telephone-1950’s, remember? This was really far out stuff then! The list goes on. The whole rig weighs in at 8500 pounds or so. And not a computer in sight!
Get yourself down to San Diego and check this thing out. Words and pictures hardly suffice to convey the whole story. Good Ol’ Youtube naturally has footage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT8azxnVAC4--it’ It’s a bit long, and at times a bit hokey, but still, it’s fascinating! In particular, watch ‘em change a tire on the run with no safety harnesses, no helmets, just doing it! Can you even imagine trying this in today’s world of hyper safety and the nanny state?
So, to usher in this Possibly Apocalyptic Year of 2012, I offer Louis Mattar as the second in our Road Trippin’ Pantheon of Immortals, right up there beside Horatio Nelson Jackson, the first Road Tripper. Let these two inspire you to Hit the Road! Who knows if you’ll have another chance?

<The engine changes it's own oil and has backups to the backups!>

<Wow! a reel to reel? A Car Phone? A HOOKAH?>

Posted 2012-01-01 10:20:46 by Steve McCarthy

Not Primer In Stock

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 19:03:49 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

well was suppose to get that epoxy primer done today but my supplier was out of stock.....dam will have to scuff that body again in a few days

Posted 2011-12-30 19:03:49 by Dave B

Did The Sandblasting

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 19:09:56 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well got the dreaded sandblasting done dam near froze it was -20C out. I used 5 bags.

<cold very cold>

<ready for primer>

Posted 2011-12-29 19:09:56 by Dave B

Stripping The Paint

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 19:09:13 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well I decided to strip off the paint and do a proper job of it. I was very happy I did because I found many layers of paint under. I used paint stripper and lots of work.

<took three layers of stripper>

<did all the outside shell>

Posted 2011-12-28 19:09:13 by Dave B

The Tear Down

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 19:04:28 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well took lots of pics to help with the re-assembly. It went well no more surprises in fact I am very please to see the body and frame are in great shape.

<front end off>

<pretty much clean off>

Posted 2011-12-28 19:04:28 by Dave B

Removed Engine And Grearbox

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 19:00:30 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well took all of two hours to put the rad,engine,gearbox ....I noticed some engine bolts are stripped out will need to retap with helicoils. The differential bearings are done and so are the gears will need to replace it.

<on her way out>

<the diff is scrap>

Posted 2011-12-28 19:00:30 by Dave B

Gutted The Insides

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 18:55:54 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

removed all the insides and purchased a interior kit of black. Noticed the only floor rust was drivers side.

<noticed drivers side floor needed replacing>

<sand blaster and paint seat frames>

Posted 2011-12-28 18:55:54 by Dave B

Bought My 78 1500

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 18:12:08 -0800

Dave B's Journal --

Well I paid 2200 bucks the car is solid but had lots of badly done repairs so decided to strip it down and start fresh.

<just purchase>

<not impressed decided to do a tear down>

Posted 2011-12-22 18:12:08 by Dave B

Bumpers

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 13:31:40 -0800

Dickie Brewer's Journal --

Took the bumpers to the chromers. $670 to get them both cleaned up and triple chromed. Should have them back end of next week or the first of the following week.

Posted 2011-12-22 13:31:40 by Dickie Brewer

Update Dec. 011

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 17:04:53 -0800

Ron Cribbs's Journal --

Undergoing frame up restoration

New powder coated frame
Rebuilt suspension, lowered springd, adjustable shocks front and rear
New brakes, lines, cylinder
Resealed transmission, differential (3:07)
REbuilt Mk3 engine
Ported, polished head with matching intake and exhaust manifold ports
REbuilt Strombergs with option of HS8 SU's on modified manifold

Cooling system and engine ancillaries

Posted 2011-12-21 17:04:53 by Ron Cribbs

My Spitfire Pheonix!

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 15:28:41 -0800

Dickie Brewer's Journal --

I thought I would cronical my build if anyone is doing likewise or is interested or just likes seeing pics of stuff they might wonder about.
To date, I have done the following:
[b]Mechanicals:[/b] 8 months: re-built tranny, rebuilt diff, new u-joints, new brakes, calipers, drums, rotors, front and rear suspension bushings/bits/bolts, etc. New alum wheels and Yoko tires. So the full drive train is like new. approx $2500
[b]Electrical:[/b] 2 months: Front wiring harness, trunk lights, floor lights, 4 speaker stereo, re-conditioned all gages, new headlights (eurostyle), reconditioned side lights frt/rr. So all the electricals are working and shiney. aprox $1000
[b]Interior:[/b] 3 months: Re-covered seats/new foam, visors, door panels, cockpit panel, dash, relaminated wood dash, new wiper squirterparts, cleaned/lubed all door hardware, new door locks, new wood steering wheel and shift knob, made/covered panels for trunk. $$1000
[b]Body:[/b] 4 months: all body work, paint base/clear body and frame, new weatherstrips everywhere, new windshield and trim.$1500
[b]Engine:[/b] 2 months: Complete teardown and rebuild from the oil pump to the valve train, rebuilt carb, new radiator. $1000
I will write later about what I have left and post pics of each step.

Posted 2011-12-21 15:28:41 by Dickie Brewer

Restoration Update

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 17:12:10 -0800

Bob Evans's Journal --

Now it's Winter and the car is once again partially disassembled. I lost the Summer, such as it was (crappy weather til September) but I did get the diff and trailing arms out, replacing bearings and seals in the diff and installing a drain plug. Got the TA's rebushed and added Goodparts adjustable brackets. Along with new wheel cylinders and mounting kit, installed Goodrich braided brake lines, rebuilt brake adjusters and painted everything, replacing old nuts and bolts with shiny, new Grade 8 stuff where needed. Also did a refurbish and cleanup/paint of the spare TR4 gearbox, adding a new cross-drilled clutch shaft arm, new dowel pins, shaft bushes, throwout bearing and sleeve and all gaskets. I got the car on the road for the first drive Aug. 31st and put it away again in October. I've now removed the bonnet, the interior and most of the bits keeping the engine and gearbox in the car and will pull them after Christmas. After detailing the engine bay and the remainder of the underneath I will reinstall the rebuilt engine with that TR4 box, new clutch and pressure plate and new steering rack. Not much left to do!

<Trailing Arm>

<Trailing Arm Refresh>

Posted 2011-12-19 17:12:10 by Bob Evans

Flat-bedded From Charlotte To Raleigh

Sun, 18 Dec 2011 09:12:15 -0800

D F Russell's Journal --

Dropped w/Flying Circus in Durham.
o New master cylinder, brake servo, brake lines, rotors etc.
o Purchased used distributor & mailed to advanceddistributors.com for rebuild & electronics installation
o New Rosewood Burl Dash

<As purchased from prior owner>

Posted 2011-12-18 09:12:15 by D F Russell

Paint Work

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 21:10:49 -0800

Dickie Brewer's Journal --

Finished the wet sanding and buffing tonight. What a laborious job, but well worth it. Im all in all very pleased with the results. Now i can start putting the car back together.
I put the rubber frame on the new windshield. Ill install the chrome trim on it befor i put it in the car.

Posted 2011-12-16 21:10:49 by Dickie Brewer

My On-going Running Restoration

Sat, 10 Dec 2011 12:27:21 -0800

Ian R's Journal --

This is the on-going saga of my little Spit. Most has been written retrospectively, so the early entries are lacking in detail.

August 2011 – bought Spitfire £1750

September 3rd - Oil change
Oil filter
Spark plugs
New Thermostat (82 degrees)

October 2011: -
New Seatbelts
Exhaust replaced
Upgraded H9 Halogen Headlights
Oil Pressure gauge fitted
Hard top bought and fitted ( for winter )

November 2011: -
Carbs tuned and Balanced
Electrics need looked at (due to intermittant headlight/taillight/sidelight fault

December 10th 2011: -
Car has become very very hard to start so after consulting the Haynes manual and a few online forums I narrowed the problem down to the condenser, which i orderd a replacement for. (£2.25 on ebay).
Condenser fitted to distributer and re-assembled on car.
Ignition now turns engine very strongly, however engine will not catch. Checked HT leads for power and they all work. Problem could be knackered plugs or carburation fault?

Posted 2011-12-10 12:27:21 by Ian R

Project Progress

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:34 -0800

James King's Journal --

I installed a s2 cam from TSI imports, with new lifters. Installed, the engine then received a mocal spin on adapter with fitments for an oil cooler. Rebuilt SU carbs have replaced the Strombergs. I fabricated my own air filter. A two piece unit, with a filter housing and an air box over the carb openings. We'll see if the bonnet struts will clear the right side... I took a piece of plate steel and made a cradle for the oil cooler. the cradle is welded to the frame, and the cooler is bolted into place. The cradle is the lowest forward point on the frame and will hopefully protect the cooler from curb damage.

New front shocks, lowered springs, trunnions, ball joints, and tie rod ends were installed. A 1/2 inch lowering block, rear trunnion dust seals and bushings, rotoflex doughnuts, and rear slave cylinders were installed. I bought a bulk length of cunifer brake line from canleys and the threaded fitments for the entire car's brake system. Napa supplied a new 5/16 steel fuel line,

Posted 2011-12-07 18:28:34 by james king

Project Start

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 19:08:24 -0800

James King's Journal --

I purchased this GT6 in Western Maryland and towed it home behind the truck of my friend. I was about to start a Fulbright Fellowship in Ghana in January of 2010 so I parked it in the drive of our new house in Salisbury. When I returned, I started tearing the car down. The first and most distressing thing was the degree rust on the lower portions of the car-rockers, lower portion of the rear valence, and bonnet nose. Wood was cut and held in place by "L" brackets serving as the floor below the pedals while below the seats the metal fell away with little work; it was as if the car had sat, up to the rockers, in salt water.

I tore the car down beginning in June, 2010 and, beginning with the frame, began welding in patches and panels to repair rusted portions of the box and out rigger portions of the frame. This type of welding was by break-in with a new Hobart Handler 140. I had done a little arc welding with a little stick welder, but this was the first time I had to make use of a mig/gas set up. After the patches were welded and finished, I primed the entire sandblasted frame with Rust-oleum red oxide primer and Rust-oleum epoxy paint. Much later, I would shoot the frame with two part clear.

I collected body parts; rear wing lower pieces, both rockers and cut the bad pieces out, and prepped the area for reception of the new part. A couple of the "c" jawed vise grips for welding and I was able to work. I started by using a puddle method and later was able to create a reasonable bead; the wild card was welding galvanized metal (Like JC Whitney's rocker panels) and the areas of significant rust- at which point the weld would sprout a glowing mini tube at its end. almost without fail, when a weld had that extra "ash" I guess I'll call it, the weld was weak. The lesson drove home was the necessity to get down to bare metal before trying to attach new metal to old. To put the rear wing panels in, I had to cut away the area at the height of the space where the bumper attaches on the side, and leave a gap of about 1/8 th inch between the good metal and the top of the new wing piece. four tacked spots became eight, then sixteen, each time I made a small connection between the old and new pieces, and eventually I had sealed up the seam. spacing the welding periods out helped a lot concerning warping. I could have overlpaaed the metal but I wanted the practice with the small, individual weld spots. using .023 wire helped as well.

I cut portions out of the rear valence that were shot. I was able to get a pretty straight rectangle cut out, in an effort to make whatever cut sheet metal piece I had to create as simple as possible.

I made a lower door skin panel, actually before I knew that you could buy one. It came out OK with the top seam matching the crease in the door panel. again .023 wire helped here too.

I had pulled the engine and sent the empty block to my local NAPA to be cleaned and checked for cracks. They did the valves and otherwise checked the head. I installed stainless exhaust valves, new bearings seals and piston rings.

While I was in Ghana I ordered the Type -9 gearbox and shift lever from a US Merkur vendor in the Midwest. I had it looked over by a transmission specialist and cleaned it before painting.

<wood floor>	<new triumph and my wife>	<frame repairs>
<primed and painted in epoxy>

Posted 2011-12-06 19:08:24 by james king

71 Gt6

Mon, 05 Dec 2011 18:52:53 -0800

Albert C's Journal --

This past weekend we finally stored the Mustang in its corner and made room for the GT6. We've lifted the body off frame and set it aside. We are going to sort out the brake/fuel line routing,then refresh the suspension. Of course this is after we figure out all the hardware scattered in 7 boxes.
FYI, p-o dismantled car to the tub and all parts are in boxes. Now I have the pleasure of ressurecting this car. mind over matter.

Posted 2011-12-05 18:52:53 by Albert C

To GPS Or Not GPS?

Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:51:41 -0800

Road Trippin' With Steve McCarthy --

Road Trippin'
with Steve McCarthy

To GPS or not GPS?

That is indeed a question. Is it nobler to bear the slings and arrows of a map or to arm oneself with something more modern? OK, enough of paraphrasing Hamlet. It's too easy. It IS coming on the season of gift giving bacchanalia, and tech toys are a staple. GPS has been around for a while, so many of the bugs are worked out. Or are they?
First, GPS, like every other bit of techno-wizardry is a TOOL! Nothing more,nothing less. If it can't do the job, no matter how glitzy and sexy it might be, why bother. Now anyone who knows me will tell you that I am more than a bit of a neo-luddite. I got a 'pooter when they began to address my needs. I still don't have a cell phone. I'm about as anti-tech-for-tech-sake as a guy can be in this ever technological age. Hell, I drive a TR3 ferchissake! I don't even have electronic ignition! So who better to give you the skinny on GPS?
OK, I bought one. The day before our massive 4600 mile road trip that you've been reading about for the past few months. I got a Garmin on the advice of several more tech literate friends. The nuvi 1450 was pretty highly rated on several websites, so, after hunting one down (took several stores to find just that one) I got one at Radio Shack. I did not get the one with lifetime maps, figuring that we'll use it mostly on road trips on back roads, their not making any more of them, so who needs the updates. IF however, you need one because you regularly do deliveries, or are a chauffeur, you might think seriously about the extra hundred bucks or so that life time map upgrades will cost you. Think about your needs, then get the one that fits. Bragging rights are lame and expensive. This is not then a side by side comparison, it's just six months of living with the thing, using it on road trips and around town.
First, yes, it is a useful tool in many ways. Second, it does have serious limitations for Road Trippers. Let's address the positives first. Probably the number one feature that is helpful is hitting the "Home" button if you are in really unfamiliar territory and got yourself turned around. No matter how turned around you are, it will at least get you to major roads and you can reset from there. Second, IF you take the time to program in your route, it is easier than reading a map in a bouncing car. the Garmin has a feature that can call up the next several turnings so you can see what's next and what's next after that. Third, it gives you plenty of notice as to when you'll be turning, unlike some navigators I've driven with ("Hey, turn HERE!") and having that notice makes things a lit easier. By the way, Marianne is NOT one of those, she gives great directions in plenty of time. Usually. Like all people, myself included, she sometimes goofs. Rarely, but stuff sometimes happens. Next, it's pretty handy for finding restaurants and motels. We were really grateful for this on this summer's trip when when we were finally rolling into Grand Junction and needed some eats and a place to sleep. Between the GPS and the AAA guide, we were satisfied on both counts. Lastly, the extra bells and whistles are kinda fun. You're not limited to the one annoying voice that sounds so perturbed when you don't do what it wants you to do "reCALculating..." or the same icon that follows the road. Several are down loadable from the Garmin website as well as fun voices you can get form places like www.pigtones.com. I now have "Sean Connery" telling me that he was "just out walking my rat and got lost..." and randomly asking me if I expect him to talk. I also got Yoda and Clint Eastwood. The five inch touch screen is pretty easy to use (don't bother getting anything smaller, they are worthless!) and the constant orientation that follows the road is a good idea. The trip info is good and you can add a panel to the display that gives you a variety of info, such as direction of travel, elevation, time, speed (and local speed limit!), time and mile to destination, arrival time and others. These are customizable to your needs. Pretty cool. Another useful tool is the traffic link. Around LA, it will tell you in close to real time if there is bad traffic up ahead, and where it is. It's not infallible, but more useful than "Traffic on the fives" which never seem to address the problems where YOU happen to be. Especially if it involves the San Gabriel Valley. It's like we don't exist. but I digress.
The so-so features are few. The trip info is useful in knowing how far you've gone but setting up your mileage and the "Eco Challenge" are pretty useless. Since the thing is not directly hooked into your car's computer, you have to set what you think is your average mileage and the price of gas. Since both of these things vary so much, it's only a mere approximation. The Eco Challenge also will track your driving habits on a rather arbitrary graph. Allegedly, it factors in your speed, braking and acceleration to give you a score. It seems to me that this score is heavily influenced by your speed and minimally by the other two. It has no way of knowing what gear you are in and how many revs you are turning. A blast up a mountain road at 40mph but in second gear at high revs will get you a better score than 55mph in fifth on the freeway. The other so-so thing is mounting it somewhere. California Law dictates that you can only mount them in either lower corner of the windshield. Not always the most useful place, especially if you are relying on a navigator. You both need to see it. Mounting on the dashboard is an impossibility in many cars, and on most, dangerous. It would seem that just above the glove box, slightly to the left of the passenger would be good. Just where the airbag will deploy, making the GPS a lethal missile. Not such a good idea that.
So, what are the down sides? The thing has way too many languages. Sure, Garmin is global, but do they really need Basque (and not Gaelic!) and Slovenian? Some are just annoying, like the British lady who always sounds inconvenienced when she is forced to recalculate because of your incompetence. The other bad thing is the Bad Traffic Avoidance function. Just turn it off. It seems to over react to any slow down, and wants to send you on the most round about way to get somewhere. Seriously, in testing this, it took me almost an hour longer to get to Monrovia from Long Beach to avoid a ten minute slow down. Naturally, the default is sending you down the Dreaded Interstate when ever possible. To set up a backroads drive, you have to set several via points to force it to take the route you want. If you take the time to set all this up, It does an OK job, but you still need a map and an idea of where you want to go. On more than one occasion, the poor thing was just overwhelmed and wanted us to go places we couldn't. "In 400 feet, turn right" which would have sent us over a cliff. Yeah, it's entertaining, but...
The WORST thing about GPS however is the tendency to send you down a road you really shouldn't be on. This probably doesn't apply to us Veteran Road Trippers as much, hell, we WANT to drive the weird twisty roads. But Justin and Madison Average in their minivan loaded with their 2.2 kids, the labrador, and the giant stroller probably shouldn't drive on some of these roads. Case in point. In heading south on the 101 from San Luis Obispo, the damn thing will want you to go over Hwy 154 and San Marcos Pass. this will cut the Gaviota Corner on the 101. Now I like 154. It's a pretty neat road, but not for Mr & Ms. Average. It's even worse for truck drivers. The guy who took his car-carrier rig over Angeles Crest and lost his brakes in La Canada, killing a couple of folks took that route on the advice of his GPS.
My point is you have to bloody well THINK. All the technojazzystuff in the world will not replace that most uncommon of all things, Common Sense. You really do need a map and a brain to Road Trip. You really need a brain and the ability to use it and think for yourself. Should you ask Santa for a GPS? Sure, they have their uses. Just don't turn off your grey matter. So, (delivered in a somewhat Scottish/Connery accent) "Drive your so called car to the route I've highlighted, God I miss the Aston Martin DB-5!"

<5587610519 30f0eab307 o>

Posted 2011-11-28 09:51:41 by Steve McCarthy

Found Older Spitfire

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:22:37 -0800

Allan W's Journal --

found what I think to be a 1964 spitfire 4 mk I. Number 60766L Can anyone provide more info on this car? Any help would be appreciated.

Posted 2011-11-21 17:22:37 by allan w

Rear Spring Refurbish

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 14:36:46 -0800

Bob Coker's Spit 6 Journal --

About a year ago (Could it have been longer?), Brian Dougherty (rhitee93) was kind enough to make a set of Teflon "Button" bushings for my transverse leaf spring.

Some time ago I rebuilt the right rear wheel bearings and had a look at the spring, noticing that the leaves were quite compressed and seemed to have mashed the OE rubber bushes.

Well the other day I decided it was time to remove the spring and refresh the bushings with those that Brian made for me. I never really had a complaint about the ride but did notice that the rear end ride height was low.

Removing the rear spring was much easier than I imagined (This was the only thing holding me back all this time) and I was glad for advice from Eric Kieboom & Jacob Poortstra's excellent site:
[url]http://www.triumphspitfire.nl/rearspringpads.html[/url]
and BPNW's YouTube channel:
[url]http://www.youtube.com/user/BPNorthwest#p/u/2/4E5rb2shsKc[/url]

From start to finish was about four hours, including paint time.
The rubber bushings had completely deteriorated, leaving only a rusty reddish dust where they should have been. I brushed each leaf on a brass wire wheel to remove rush and prepare for paint, using a good primer and a semi-gloss black finish coat. Silicone grease was liberally applied to the "buttons" to hold them in place during assembly as well as to provide lubrication (redundant, I know) between the leaves. I also applied silicone grease to the rubber buffer in the "top hat" where it contacts the top leaf.

All I can say is "WOW!" I wish I had done this sooner. I didn't realize how bad the ride was until I went for a spin with the new Teflon bushings in place. The ride is much more comfortable and the rear end seems planted more firmly.

Thanks again, Brian!

<Metal on metal. No extant rubber insulator bushings.>

<Brushed clean and ready for paint.>

Posted 2011-11-17 14:36:46 by Bob Coker

The Separation

Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:54:44 -0800

Victor Harnish's Journal --

Boy-O-Boy, half red half yellow. "Honey, the original colour was yellow. How do you feel about yellow?" I say. She says "Anything except yellow". OOOkay. Hows about red crystal tintcoat?
I got the few remaining parts cleaned from the chassis and tub. Finally found ALL the bolts holding the tub down. I was a little befuddled for a while there, couldn't get it apart. Turned out that some sound deadener on the rear seat deck was hiding two bolts. I made an "A" frame from a couple of 2bys, and slipped the "A" frame inside the car. The "A" frame fit in right through the trans tunnel and supported the car in the rear at the fuel tank mounts. I used my chain hoist to lift the tub off the chassis. Rolled the chassis outside and put the tub on a couple of saw horses.

<Yellow or red>

<Red or yellow>

<We have lift off>

Posted 2011-11-16 20:54:44 by Victor Harnish

Assessment

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:41:09 -0800

Victor Harnish's Journal --

Armed with some new documentation, I was now able to do a little work on Chip. I removed the few remaining pieces from the tub, doors, dash, bootlid and steering wheel. Everything else was removed by the PO, and I had more parts in the box of my truck bringing it home than there was on the car. The doors were fairly solid, no rust, not even at the very bottom edge. But, the drivers door was so badly dented that it needed to be reskinned. The major portion of the rust on the car was all in the floor boards, you guessed it, on the drivers side. I needed a left rear quarter, and the rest of the car would do with just a couple of small patches.

<021>	<022>	<023>
<024>

Posted 2011-11-14 22:41:09 by Victor Harnish

Registration

Sat, 12 Nov 2011 07:04:24 -0800

Victor Harnish's Journal --

Having a car given to you is great, aint it? It is if the PO registered it. If not, then there is a large roll off dumpster full of red tape to wade through to register it. The PO took the car as services rendered, and never registered the car himself before he gave it to me. He gave me a gift letter. I took this letter to the DMV, ( ICBC for the guys in B.C.). "Hi, I'd like to register this car, 1973 Triumph Spitfire comm No. FMxxxx" I say. " Seeing the car was given to you, you have to send a letter to the Department of Vehicle Testing and Inspection, DVTI, to make sure the car is not stolen." they say. So, I send a letter explaning the situation to the DVTI. Zoom ahead a couple of weeks, I get a reply from the DVTI, "You have to send a notarized, registered letter to the previous registered owner (PRO) and have them sign a bill of sale". Oh great! At least they gave me a name and address. I write another letter. This time to the PRO, explaning the whole situation and how I got the car. Had it notarized and included a bill of sale for the PRO to sign. I got the registered letter back unopenned. The PRO has passed or moved. I take the unopenned letter to ICBC, the car is mine! Got to start the restoration on Jan 5/10.

<A few dents>

Posted 2011-11-12 07:04:24 by Victor Harnish

Movin' Day

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 20:23:02 -0800

Victor Harnish's Journal --

1973 Spitfire 1500, manufactured in November of 1972.
I acquired the car on Sept,18/09 from a friend that took it for service payment. His kid wanted it and started to restore it. Lucky for me the kid soon burnt out from the amount of work required. My pal says you come and get it its yours. So I did.

<Looks OK>

Posted 2011-11-11 20:23:02 by Victor Harnish

Dash

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:48:45 -0800

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

The dash is solid walnut and the door tops are walnut veneered. The shifter knob, window crank knobs, e-brake handle and door pulls are all walnut as well.

<DSC00391>

<DSC00393>

Posted 2011-11-11 04:48:45 by Jamie Richardson

Dash

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:43:41 -0800

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

This is the solid dash and intrument panel that I am working on right now. I like being able to remove the wood panel while leaving the gauges/switches mounted to the dash.

<DSC00409>

<DSC00410>

Posted 2011-11-11 04:43:41 by Jamie Richardson

Stripping

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:38:35 -0800

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Was way too afraid to sandblast the body when the floor pan was done so asked them not to go near it. Body parts were all hand stripped with furniture stripper and was surprisingly easy and quick to do.

Bodywork got started at this time with a first cut of metal reinforced bondo.

<P1030396>

<P1030397>

Posted 2011-11-11 04:38:35 by Jamie Richardson

Details

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:26:46 -0800

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

I really wanted a clean interior so the flange on the rear deck was eliminated and welded up.

The lip in the wheelwell was cut in half and a 3/16 rod was welded in. This gives me a clean strong edge and a more tire clearance.

<P1020673>

<P1020714>

Posted 2011-11-11 04:26:46 by Jamie Richardson

Frame Stiffener

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:12:27 -0800

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Wanted to improve overall rigidity of car and thought it would help to tie together the firewall, suspension tower, and the front of the frame. This is what I bent up to achieve this(hopefully).

By the time it was all together the doors still swung properly even when the car was held up by the bumper mounts. The rad cradle is eliminated now as the rad mounts to the struts.

<295>

<306>

Posted 2011-11-11 04:12:27 by Jamie Richardson

Rotated

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:04:09 -0800

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

If you are redoing a car and are not using a rotating deck you should stop now and make one. Seriously. This is the first one I have had and it makes the job so much easier and comfortable.

Welding on the bottom to finish up rear pan. There is no lower flange left anywhere on the car.

<P1030207>

<P1030353>

Posted 2011-11-11 04:04:09 by Jamie Richardson

Rear Comparison

Sat, 05 Nov 2011 20:31:08 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

before and after on the rear.

<P1030590>

<P1020257>

Posted 2011-11-05 20:31:08 by Jamie Richardson

Rear Horns

Sat, 05 Nov 2011 20:16:44 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

After I put the body on the frame for the first time without the lower flange on the rear roll pan, the lip on the frame stuck out like a pimple. It was marked and then the next time the frame was stripped I sliced off the bottom on a taper and replated it without any lip. The end was boxed as well.

<P1020263>

<P1030010>

Posted 2011-11-05 20:16:44 by Jamie Richardson

Frame Horns

Sat, 05 Nov 2011 19:56:01 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

The front of the frame was cut and thinned out so that the slimmest of over riders could be fit.

<P1030018>

<P1030015>

Posted 2011-11-05 19:56:01 by Jamie Richardson

Hood

Sat, 05 Nov 2011 19:48:07 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Hood in primer and matched up with bumpers. Front bumper is split, capped and fit with early over riders.

<P1030478>

<P1030586>

Posted 2011-11-05 19:48:07 by Jamie Richardson

Hood

Sat, 05 Nov 2011 19:38:49 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Ok I know its supposed to be a bonnet, but that just isnt what I have called that part on any of my other vehicles. Special pleading never works for me so hood it shall remain.
Modified the area around the headlites to eliminate the alum. headlite surrounds.

<P1030454>

<P1030452>

Posted 2011-11-05 19:38:49 by Jamie Richardson

Body Work

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:23:52 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Fire wall was cut out behind the tires and a new piece fabricated to move the panel inward. This was done for clearance and to clean up the bumps a bit.

<312>

<P1020696>

Posted 2011-11-04 17:23:52 by Jamie Richardson

Body Work

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:17:25 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

More shots of the rockers. The bottom edge has a fold over edge that is bonded(glued)to the lower edge of inner sill. I expect this will last longer than a welded edge. Rust wise, at least.

<P1030201>

<P1030202>

Posted 2011-11-04 17:17:25 by Jamie Richardson

Rockers And Sills

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:09:08 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Sills were formed as one piece out to door edge and matched to door. Then the rocker was fit on and matched to sill. The rocker was able to be one piece with no lower flange.

<P1020395>

<P1030203>

Posted 2011-11-04 17:09:08 by Jamie Richardson

Body Work

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 16:56:06 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Body was sprayed inside and out with epoxy(box liner) except the trunk as there was still some welding to be done in there.

<drive 026>

<P1030160>

Posted 2011-11-04 16:56:06 by Jamie Richardson

Body Work

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 05:52:20 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Body after being sprayed with extreme DTM primer.

<drive 018>

<drive 022>

Posted 2011-11-04 05:52:20 by Jamie Richardson

Body Work

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 05:41:03 -0700

Jamie's Spitfire Resto Journal --

Body on its way to sandblaster. Best 50 spent so far.

<P1030064>

<P1030063>

Posted 2011-11-04 05:41:03 by Jamie Richardson