I bought some thin aluminum sheet at Home Depot and used the original cardboard as a template. Looking back, I should have used card stock or poster board to make a template, since the OE shroud leaves a lot of gaps for air to escape.
Always wear eye and ear protection when working with power tools and sheet metal. As well, I wear heavy gloves to protect against sharp edges.

I drilled out the rivets on the OE shroud and laid it on the aluminum sheet to mark out my shape. After cutting with a metal cutting blade in my Skil saw, the edges were de-burred with a Stanley Shur-Form. I then marked and scribed the lines for folding. In order to give it some structural strength, I also scribed a pair of lines in the top center running from the center forward, This is to help prevent rattling and 'drumming'.

Clamping with furniture clamps to a portable work table, I used a 2x4 against the scribe marks and simply bent the metal to the shape I had scribed.

Two holes were drilled on each side to bolt it to the radiator brackets. While at Home Depot, I found a 3" dia. plumbing fixture, probably intended for a toilet drain. It has a 45 degree bend with a stainless steel collar. This will work to direct 'cold' air towards the carbs, rather than have them suck in hot air underhood. After test-fitting to the mounted shroud,, I bolted it on and cut a hole in the shroud with a Dremel. I think it'll clear the hood pivots and help with air intake.

It's been a while since I last made an entry. Life is often more complicated than you expect. Or want.

The machine shop (Ewing Machine in Snellville) did exemplary work, boring and honing the cylinders out .020. They rebuilt the rods and attached the pistons. The crank was micro-polished and the block align bored, and all rotating parts balanced. The head was checked and new, hardened exhaust seats were installed along with new valves and a 3-angle grind. He center bored the existing valve guides and installed bronze sleeves. He prefers this method to bronze guides and it was cheaper...

One of my complications has been the pistons. I ordered new .020 over pistons from James Paddock, Ltd. in the UK. Excellent prices and excellent service. Unfortunately, through a warehouse error, the wrong pistons were sent. I didn't notice; since I didn't compare the new with the old, or it would've been immediately obvious. It makes me feel a little better that my machinist didn't notice, either.

Apparently I was sent a set of TR6 pistons, which are the same diameter, yet shorter. Most importantly, the wrist pin (gudgeon) is in a different location, further up the head of the piston to accommodate the longer throw of the 2.5L engine.

Paddock immediately sent a no-charge replacement set with profuse apologies (who does that any more?) and I was able to install them with no problem.

Back in January, I had taken advantage of VB's sale and bought new TR6 double tooth timing sprockets for the cam and crank. Neither have timing marks to properly align them. A phone call (and an answer a week later)revealed that VB does not sell sprockets with timing marks... Neither does Paddock or BPNW. BPNW (British Parts Northwest) does, however, have someone who understands what they sell, and he advised me to make sure the keyway on the crank was facing up (#1 piston at TDC) and copy the scribed line from my old cam sprocket and I should be fine.

Should be.

That's the part that has me nervous. So, now I have it all installed and ready to go. Now I come to realize that the sealed Payen bottom end gasket set I bought from Paddock (and presumably it would be the same anywhere else) does NOT include front and rear crankshaft oil seals. Since I am done with VB, I ordered from the Roadster Factory, which had them is stock and will hopefully have them delivered by this weekend.

In the mean time, I'm making an aluminum sheet radiator intake cowl and a new carb heat shield. More on those later.

Dropped by the machine shop and Mrs. Ewing sheepishly told me they'd been swamped (Good for them!) and she didn't know where my engine was in the process. After checking she found that the block is bored and all is balanced, but they have not yet done the head. A couple more days.
I'm not really upset because I still have a long way to go on the car to ready it for the engine. Here's the repainted engine bay:

While I'm waiting and the engine is out, it made sense to clean up the engine bay, especially the shelf on the bulkhead. Like most (all?) Triumphs and many classics, mine has leaked brake fluid, turning the paint in to a blistered, gelatinous mess.
I was going to use a chemical paint stripper but decided to forgo the fumes and scrape & sand it off. A sharp painter's 5-in-one tool was perfect for scraping (and numerous other tasks in the garage, I love those things!), while an orbital palm sander with 150, then 220 grit paper did a great job removing and smoothing the rest.
A rust converter spray will neutralize the minimal rust I encountered; a sandable primer over that, and then a finish coat will make her ready for the refreshed engine. The car is a low-metallic maroon or dark red. It is NOT a color I would have picked. Fortunately, It may have been from a GM or Ford pallet and I think I found a close shade, if not a match. I am debating whether or not to put a high-temp clear coat over it all. Probably doesn't need it. Comments? Suggestions?
I removed all the brake and metal fuel lines and polished them on the wheel with excellent results. I then sealed them with high-temp clear engine paint.
James Paddock has shipped my pistons, camshaft, etc. from England and it all should be here early next week. Their prices were excellent. I'll let you know about the quality when it all shows up...

The machinist has the block & head and says all will be machined to .20 over. He will do a 3-angle grind on the head after the hot tank & magnaflux. After the same treatment for the block, he'll bore & hone the cylinders, align bore the crank and balance the rotating assembly.

Bit the bullet and bought new pistons, bearings, clutch and others from James Paddock in the UK.(6 flat-top pistons for $200.00!) From Rimmer Bros., I took advantage of a sale and bought the OE style overdrive shift knob, shifter re-bush kit, Goodridge brake hoses ($53!) and odds & ends. From Jigsaw I bought lifters w/the oiler holes and from BPNE, Payen gasket sets.

Now I wait for everything to show up.

Taking advantage of VB's sale, I bought some hardened valve seats & TR6 double-row cam & crank sprokets. I also decided to get a beefed up headlight wiring harness, windshield washer set (Currently missing) and a thermostat for an electric fan (to be sourced later on EBay @ $30). VB's stuff is reasonably priced when on sale, but a rip otherwise.
From BPNW I ordered a new oil pump & rocker shaft to replace the tired & scored OE (?) units, along with new Stainless exhaust valves and valve springs. When I get a fresh infusion of cash, I'll order bronze guides, clutch kit and other small parts from Spitbits.
When I have enough cash set aside, I'll take the head and the block to the machine shop to get a proper assessment of what can be done. I'll have it align bored & balanced & have a 3-angle valve job.
As an indication of VB's commitment to service, 5 days after ordering, they can't confirm if my order has even shipped! (They charged me...) BPNW shipped the day I ordered and e-mailed me a tracking number.