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Author: rodolphe valenti 
Journal Created: Sunday January 29, 2012
Most Recent Post: Sunday January 29, 2012
Total Posts: 1
looking for spitfire mk2 1966 or 1967 or spitfire mk3 1968 in good condition around montreal quebec
Author: Ron Wasmuth 
Journal Created: Sunday January 22, 2012
Most Recent Post: Sunday January 22, 2012
Total Posts: 1
When I decided to put a new dashboard in my 1974 Spitfire I figured that I would go ahead and replace the 3 fuse panel with a larger fuse block. I bought a ten station fuse block from Summit Racing and wir from British Wiring. Jason at British Wiring is very helpful and honest. he will sell wire in one meter lengths so you don't have to buy a whole roll. My original 3 fuse panel had 1 red/green wire, 1 brown wire and 4 white wires on what I call the 'hot' side. On what I call the 'load' side there were 2 red wires,4 purple wires and 4 green wires. I bought approximately 16 feet of red wire, 16 feet of brown wire, 12 feet of purple, 16 feet of white, 16 feet of green and 4 feet of white/pink. I cut the wire into 4 foot lengths. Using spade connectors, I connected 2 red wires, 4 white wires and 4 brown wires to the 'hot' side of my new fuse block. Again using spade connectors I connected 2 red wires on the same fuse as the 'hot' red wires, 4 green wires on the same fuses as the 4 white wires, 3 purple wires and the white/pink on the brown wire fuses. I also put wire markers #1 thru #10 on theses wires. I then mounted the new fuse panel on the firewall behind the battery at the top of the right side glove box. I bundled the wires together (wrapped them) and fed them across the underside of the dashboard to the left side where the original fuse panel was. I removed the original fuse panel (squeeze the clips to pop it out) and pushed it as far into the engine bay as possible. With the original fuse panel out of the way I fed my new wires thru the hole and into the engine bay. I cut the 'hot' side wires off the original fuse panel, spliced them to the new wires of the same color (red, white and brown), soldered them and covered them with heat shrink tubing. I have a heat gun but a hair dryer would probably work. The I cut the 2 red 'load' side wire (panel and driving lamps)and spliced (etc.) them to the new red wires. I then cut the purple wires, checked them with an ohm meter to see where they went and followed suit. I had one extra so I put it with another on one of the new wires. I then followed suit with the green wires. The last wire - the white/pink I connected to my radio so I could play the radio with the ignition off (radio is hot all the time) I turn it on/off with it's switch. After all the splicing I pushed all the wires back into the car under the dash and popped the original fuse panel back into it's slot.
Author: Neal F
Journal Created: Sunday January 22, 2012
Most Recent Post:
Total Posts: 0
No posts in this journal yet.
Author: Richard Urbanski
Journal Created: Wednesday January 18, 2012
Most Recent Post:
Total Posts: 0
No posts in this journal yet.
Author: Scott Beattie
Journal Created: Sunday January 15, 2012
Most Recent Post: Saturday February 4, 2012
Total Posts: 5
Been pluggin along . Ordered pretty much all the suspension parts . Repainted the steering wheel w/ rustoleum hammered finish and did the grill upgrade . Turned out pretty good me thinks .
Author: Mark Freece 
Journal Created: Saturday January 14, 2012
Most Recent Post: Saturday January 14, 2012
Total Posts: 1
She's painted.The fun job of assembly begins.
Author: Wes Brown
Journal Created: Thursday January 12, 2012
Most Recent Post: Thursday January 12, 2012
Total Posts: 1
Making a LeMans Style Headllight, Well the first thing I was going to have to do is find the center of my bonnet, which can be found by the air intake on the bonnet, on a 1980 bonnet there are 49 slots, the center was 15. It may be different on other years. I found it easier for me to take the bonnet off, and all attachments. Anyway, in the front on the bonnet center underneath, there is a small hole in which is the center of the bonnet. Draw a line up so you can see it better, and using a chalk line, I snaped a line from the center of grill to that mark, blow away the waste. So the line does not rub away, a clear coat of something over the line, what the line does, is helps with measurements so both sides are cut and formed evenly. Using a cloth measuring ruler, that’s used in sewing, which works better, mark on the chalk line, pencil or marker 3 inch marks just behind where you think you will be cutting. Again, used to accurate help. Now before I go any further with this, I had to decide what kind of Lemans style I wanted, I looked at some different photos of Dino, fiat, LeMans, Jags and so on, When making templates, I made them out of thin card board; and use the center line as well as the side seams on the Spitfire to help with measuring, again, once I made the cut there's no going back, so be sure this is what you want. Now the modification that i made was was done with fiberglass, but I could have saved myself allot of time and trouble, if I had access to or knew someone who welded. NOTE: What would also save me some time is if I could have found a company who sale plex covers for kit cars as i have listed below. Don't know if they will sell them separate but there's no harm in asking. If I would have been able to locate covers again, save me some time, so, use the plex cover to make your LeMans style head light which again, will save you some time, as you’ll have the shape, and you'll probably have to cut them down a little, cutting slowly as not to crack the lens. just need to transfer that to your bonnet. Another plus too this is that you’ll also have covers over your modification after all is done. Of course you may still have to cut them down. http://www.automobileaddiction.com/ = 250 GT "SportSpyder http://www.classicreplicasuk.com/ = Ferrari Dino 246 http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/5531_ferrari_spyder_replica_kit/index.html = Calif Spyder Replica http://www.kitcarz.com/ = Ferrari 250 GTO http://www.shellvalley.com/Replicas_and_Jeeps/Daytona_Replica/ = 1964 Daytona Coupe Series II After you've removed the original head light & headlight buckets, etc, which you will be reusing, and you've traced your outline, a small drill bit was used which made a slot for the blade. It’s now time to cut, taking a deep breath, and maybe a stuff drink, and not having any second thoughts, cut away. But make sure you have safety goggles on, jig saw kicks up bits of metal. The part that is cut out,is the end product of your cut out and the one thing, that I should have used, which would have cut down allot of glassing. Weld the seam in the back, and then grind the ridge on the other side and fill in. Save these parts for later use. Now I didn’t take pics of the next thing, but will try to tell what I did, concerning, the Light Panel Outer Ring. After cutting out, you will need to cut or grind any excess metal down and or smooth On cutting excess material out, there is a lip on the inside lip seam where the two body half meet. If your fiber glassing, you will have to remove about 1 to 2 inches, and weld the gap, which will give you something to glass to. If you’re doing metal, leave the lip, grind the other excess To make less work for yourself, glassing, cut excess material from Light Panel Outer Ring, leaving just the small forward portion and re-bolt it back on bonnet and weld seams where it connects to bonnet. What this part will do is help with forming your LeMans Style headlights. As all my work was done with fiberglass mating and fiberBondo with fiberglass fibers, forming the headlight design can be done with either metal, or glass as I have done. Light Panel Outer Ring Weld these parts in, about ½ to 1 from each of cut, if you want your lights to set back, or you can weld it to the edge. When you weld make sure that where the light buckets sits on/in is level. Now the two parts that you cut out and that you’ve welded and grind, I think the part you cut off the driver’s side fits the passenger side, and the passage fits the driver side, or is it the other way around, not sure. In other words fit which one fits best, as you will be able to tell once in. Once this has been welded in, its time to form , with metal or glass. You’ll need to make a lip around the front where everything connects to. Once your lip is made, it’s time to form and fill in your LeMans head light. As stated before, if you can find Plexiglas covers, this is where you should first start and you’ll save yourself allot of trouble. I’ve recently found some plex glass cover that I had from a kit car, so I’m currently changing the front to match lens, never a dull moment. in for an oz in for a lb. Where were these when I started eh, oh well. I will have to cut glass down, but now I have covers , oh yea. To protect paint and plex covers, when bonnet is done, I’ve used 7/64 x 6 windshield washer & vacuum tubing. Simply using a sharp razor blade, slice down the middle. When done, just place around edge of plex covers, and superglue ends together. Be careful not to slice into the other side like I did and had to purchase another. It comes in 6ft length, so you should have enough for both covers. Another thought, chrome door edge moding? If your placing side grills like the GT6 and LeMans, couple of options, your either making modifications to a GT6 which already has grills, you can modify a pair from a Pontiac GT0 front grill like I did (forgot what year), or you can use BMW fender side grill, which was used on a Spitfire that I found on the web. When you look at them it doesn’t look too bad and will save yourself allot of time. These can be found on Ebay for about $20.00 a pair if you look. I probably would have gone that way and save myself alllllllllllllllllot of glassing again, and still thinking about. The M5 is easily removable in which a Spitfire Logo can be placed instead. Well, that’s it, the power hump on my LeMans bonnet is from an Eclipse, and welded to bonnet, as I plan on placing a Chevy S10 V6 2.8, with Carbs, and a T5 transmission, with a Subaru differential. Still trying to locate a plate to fit the subaru/datsun so that it will fit into the frame without making mods. Its funny you see them allot on other Spitfire, but no information on where they got it, if your out there, share the information!!!! As I can’t leave well enough alone, and because I had this on my third spitfire, this one will also have an electric bonnet lift, no more walking around the other side to lift the bonnet,for me, it worked with either remotely or switch. will attached pic later Good luck
Author: Ron D
Journal Created: Tuesday January 10, 2012
Most Recent Post: Wednesday January 11, 2012
Total Posts: 3
The stage that I'm at at this time. Getting stuff torn down. First time have ever gone this far on a car, so should be interesting. Cleaned all the carpet and refurbished dash, arm rest, top and painted other parts, water pump housing, thermostat housing, and etc. Working on heater at this time.
Author: Richard Dearinger
Journal Created: Monday January 9, 2012
Most Recent Post: Monday January 9, 2012
Total Posts: 1
1) Interior-Seats and foams (my seat frames are good I'm going to find foams I like at pull-a-part and then trim them to fit and upholster), carpet (have it), new console (I have modified the console from a Subaru something and made mounts for it, still need to upholster), door panels (I make and sell door cards for 1500's, so I have them, I am upholstering mine in Tuck n Roll) and rear panels (Tuck n Roll), refinish the dash. 2) Trunk-New cards and carpet everywhere plus a few "extras" (Same carpet as in the interior, LED's, storage compartment). 3) LED lights-Install LED's in trunk, under Bonnet, under dash and in-dash with dimmer (I have LED's on a strip that can be cut into 3 light sections and a dimmer for LED's all 12 volt). 4) Rear Diff-change the current 3.89 to a 3.27, should be a better fit with my engine/trans (I have found a GT6 diff and come to a price for it just need to get together with the owner to get it). 5) Front suspension-TRF magic kit(rubber bushes), box and powdercoat the control arms, box modify and powdercoat the shock towers, fabricate a shock tower brace (I have also made the deal for the control arms and towers from the same GT6 I'm getting the diff out of, just need to get there at the same time as the owner)
Author: Jim M
Journal Created: Tuesday December 27, 2011
Most Recent Post: Tuesday December 27, 2011
Total Posts: 2
Maybe 30 years ago, I was a civilian Ordinary Seaman, 12-4 watch helmsman aboard the U.S. Navy Research Labs, USNS Mizar, T-AGOR 11, that stood in to Portsmouth, England. The British Navy had several, lovely, civilian crewed, paddle-wheel Big boats. The were modern diesel-electrics, build in the 1950's. I watch one come along side, midships, a large ship. Seemingly by turning one paddle forward, the other turning aft; the tug turned the bigger vessel in it's own length. Much like a land tank can turn. What is the fate of these wonderland vessels of recent English yore? Jim M., on the lee-side of life. Southport, N.C., on the Cape Fear River.
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